How to use lead-in lines in travel photography

Top 6 sites to take a sunset picture in Koh Chang, Thailand

Lead-in lines are a very clever visual way that can be used to help the viewers’ eye through the scene and give your images a greater sense of depth.

For landscape photography, there is a range of scenic elements that can be used as lead-in lines including walls, fences, rivers, streams, paths, roads and much more.

Here are the best advices to use this technique to improve your landscapes

If you are after travel photography tips, compositions, tutorials and much more then why not reading and downloading for FREE (no need to pass your email, no worries) this ultimate guide for travel photography. Over 70 pages that may change your way to make (not just take) photos when travelling.

FREE (no email required) Reference Guide to Travel Photography

Fine-tune your composition

Ideally, a lead-in line should run from the foreground towards a prominent focal point within the image, providing the viewer’s eye with a route to follow through the image.

This can help to convey a feeling of depth in a landscape photograph, giving it a more three-dimensional feel.

A line that runs directly from one corner of the image can be particularly effective and you’ll find that diagonal lines tend to be strongest.

From the Bolte bridge to the Observation Wheel, Melbourne
From the Bolte bridge to the Observation Wheel, Melbourne

Use subtle lead-in lines

Lead-in lines don’t have to dominate the image – often subtle lines can be more effective.

Implied lines, such as shadows, footprints on a sandy beach, a row of boulders and even cloud patterns can make very effective lead-ins.

Docklands_20150130_041_2_3_Bike_-bridge_-Charles-Grimes_-Docklands_-Jim-Stynes_-path_-River_-Yarra-min
View to the city

Use curved lines

Lead-in lines don’t have to be straight.

Curving lines can be more effective as they slow the viewer’s progress through the image, allowing them to explore more of the detail in the scene.

Dry-stone walls, hedgerows, streams and other similar features in the landscape can sometimes provide the eye with several places to rest on its journey through the image.

How to use lead-in lines in landscape photography
How to use lead-in curved lines in landscape photography

Select the correct aperture

When composing an image with a lead-in line you’ll normally want to record the whole image in sharp focus from front to back.

How to use lead-in lines in landscape photography
Use the right aperture together with lead-in lines

Use an aperture between f/8 and f/15 to to have a full sharp image

Try a wide-angle lens

Lead-in lines can be accentuated with the use of a wide-angle lens, making use of perspective to help draw the viewers eye through the scene.

Strong lead-in lines photographed using a wide-angle lens at 16-17mm can create a particularly dramatic effect.

Shoot in vertical format

Lead-in lines can be used to even more dramatic effect when shooting in vertical format.

Distance will be emphasized, as the effect of perspective will be greater

How to use lead-in lines in landscape photography
How to use lead-in lines in landscape photography

If you think that this post has helped and you want to know much more about travel photography then you should read and download the FREE Ultimate Guide to Travel Photography (no emails required), a 70 pages PDF file.

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7 steps for your best misty and foggy travel photography

7 steps for your best misty and foggy landscape photo

Mist and fog can be a cool effect to have in a travel, landscape or city photo. It is not something you can program, however, and when you are lucky enough to experience it, be ready with your camera.

There are few locations where it is easier to find mist and fog, others that are almost impossible. In all cases both mist and fog are seasonable.

These are the best tips to be ready with your camera. Planning is of course a big part of it.

If you are after travel photography tips, compositions, tutorials and much more then why not reading and downloading for FREE (no need to pass your email, no worries) this ultimate guide for travel photography. Over 70 pages that may change your way to make (not just take) photos when travelling.

FREE (no email required) Reference Guide to Travel Photography

Learn where mist forms

Some locations are particularly susceptible to mist, such as river valleys, lakes and marshes.

It can be a good idea to head towards these areas first, although the mist here can sometimes be too dense, obscuring trees and other landscape features completely.

If this is the case try to get as high as you can and work around the edges of any thicker banks of fog where parts of the landscape are still visible.

Pick a good vantage point

In misty conditions a good vantage point is usually a high vantage point! For the best variety of shots you’ll need to be above the mist, looking down upon it with a clear view of the surrounding landscape.

Great images can also be made at a lower level, along riverbanks and around the shores of lakes, but here the opportunities to take a variety of different shots tend to be more limited.

7 steps for your best misty and foggy landscape photo
Pick a good vantage point, as on top of a village, for a misty photo

Persevere and revisit

Misty conditions are highly unpredictable so it’s often necessary to keep returning to the same location whenever there is the slightest chance of mist forming overnight.

Remember that mist can be patchy and may not always form in the same areas each time.

Mist also moves around a surprising amount and may come and go in a few minutes.

Cloud has a tendency to suck the mist upwards, making the conditions hazy and poor for photography.

On clear days the mist will thicken around sunrise and then quickly thin and burn off as the sun’s rays start to take effect.

7 steps for your best misty and foggy landscape photo
You may have to revisit a place several times before you have the right conditions for your foggy landscape photo

Avoid flare

Don’t rely upon your lens hood to prevent flare from creeping into your images.

When shooting into the light at sunrise or sunset the sun’s rays are still likely to strike the lens.

Try using a piece of card held at arm’s length to cast a shadow across the front element of your lens.

Using Live View will help to ensure that it doesn’t appear in the shot.

Control contrast

When shooting into the sun in misty conditions it is likely that you will need to control the contrast in the scene, either using graduated ND filters or by merging several different exposures of the same scene as in HDR.

7 steps for your best misty and foggy landscape photo
Contrast has been increased in post-production

Take your time

The difference of temperature between the inside of your bag and the environment around you is usually quite high in a foggy day.

What does it mean?

Your lens will have condensation on top, once you take your camera out. It will disappear, just give a few minutes.

Do not start touching your lens or clean it, it will be a never-ending exercise 😉

Colour or black & white

It is always very hard to make a decision with a foggy/misty photo. Should I post-process it in B&W or keep the colours.

As expected colours will pop up as most of the photo will be whitish.

Try to include just one colour and you will have a good balance.

In this way, the human eye will concentrate on just one variation and it will not be distracted by multiple colours, loosing the romantic and mysterious background

7 steps for your best misty and foggy landscape photo
The green of the grass is the only variation in the above photo

Do you live or planning to come to Melbourne?

The best spot is the Dandenong Ranges, around 45 minutes from the city.

Go there in the early morning, best in spring and autumn.

If you think that this post has helped and you want to know much more about travel photography then you should read and download the FREE Ultimate Guide to Travel Photography (no emails required), a 70 pages PDF file.

Download the FREE Travel Photography guide

I do not like “pushing marketing” and that is why I do not ask email, name, phones, grandpa names etc in exchange.

However, if you want to be updated on new similar tutorials, free guides and spreadsheets and much more then you can always subscribe to the mailing list.

PS You can unsubscribe whenever you want


10 steps to be a still photographer in a feature movie production (Part 2)

10 steps to be a still photographer in a feature movie production (Part 1)

Last week we talked about the first 5 steps for a still photographer in a feature movie. We continue this week with the last 5 steps. Do not hesitate to add any comment. I will write later another article on gear and how to get involved in a movie production. 

Step #6 : The film crew

Be prepared to spend a considerable amount of time on set. Sometime there are big pauses in the day, just because lots of gear needs to be moved from scene to scene, the interior/exterior of the location has to be changed, make up is organised and much much more. What to do during these long pauses? Make a documentation of the backstage. The photos of the crew are very important, what they are doing, where they work. You may end up with some great shots.

Also the actors during the pauses are more relaxed. Again be a ghost. You can take shoot of them playing, talking, chatting or just waiting. Have a talk with them, they don’t bite. You may even use the lights of the set to do some portrait shooting. These will be all great photos that will work great on the movie website.

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Step #7 : Push your limits

One of the biggest problem I experienced was the light. Sometime it was too harsh, just in the middle of the day. Other times right in the middle of the cold night and the director wanted to have a wide photo, almost a landscape.

The harsh light can be somehow controlled with the reflectors and white filters. Take at least two with you. I usually work with a 1.5 meter high and a 2 meters one. That sorted out few of the issues I had. Again there is always somebody willing to help you. Of course, it is common sense to be nice to everybody on set and that should be the normal natural attitude of a photographer, if not of every human being 😀

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The lack of light is more of a problem. Push the ISO on is a suggestion, however there is a limit to it. I was able to to solve other situations with my tripod and asking the actors to stay still for 1-2 seconds. It worked. Again it is really a win-win situation for everybody.

Step #8 : Post-production

Have a talk with the producer and see what is the end result he/she would like to have. Provide few examples that you may find on the internet.

This works great if the producer has already a final effect in mind. If he/she does not, talk with the director about the story and check some of the film post production already done or example of movies he/she inspires from. Once you have an idea, do the post-production of the first days and show it to the director and the producer. That’s a great starting point. You will end up with the correct filters after few adjustments.

Use the same Lightroom/Photoshop filter for any photos you take. Have a common pattern and process, unless requested otherwise. Use Photoshop (or any similar sw) to remove unwanted objects from the photo, even better remove the object, if possible, before making the photo. The less time you spend in post-production the better.

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Keep always the original of course. I use Adobe Lightroom, however there are so many other alternatives.

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Step #9 : Organise your photos

My rule of thumb is that if somebody is asking me for a photo I should be able to find it within 2 minutes in my computer. Wasting more time than 2 minutes means that there is something wrong with my archiving

With Lightroom I have organised the movie in a two level folders. The first level is the day with the location name (“20140927 Melbourne South Gate” as an example), I add a second level in case the shooting is in two or more locations (the first level is then just the date). Any folder in the second level has the site name.

When I import the photos I add straight away the keywords. I add the name of any main actor, the site, the scene number, the location (kitchen, bathroom, etc), director name, movie title, any important or unusual comment, type of scene (long shot, medium shot, close-up). This should cover 99% of the future requests.

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Step #10 : Backup your photos

This is very important. You just cannot ask the producer to shoot again a scene because your hard disk crashed. This is the process I usually use, not just for the movie case but for any assigned work.

If you have a camera that allow it, shoot on two cards. I usually work with a Nikon D600 which has two SD cards slots. You can set up the camera to save on both cards at the same time. You have already a backup meanwhile you make photos, that’s great. There is just one case when it does not work. When you do sequence shooting, like sport shooting and you want 10 photos in a second. That’s ok, you don’t need it in a movie, unless an action movie of course 😉 Just live with that and fingers crossed.

I usually store the photos at the end of the day, however, when possible, I try to copy the shooting during the lunch breaks as well. Better be safer.

Once synchronized in your Lightroom (or similar sw), do the post production. At the end export the photos you want to show to your producer/director in two formats, a light one (200K) and the 100% resolution one. Store both of them on a shared drive (GDrive, Copy or many others). The day after you can show the photos on your mobile/tablet directly from the shared drive, of course the low resolution ones. The high resolution ones are there in case there is an immediate need for the press or the producer. Be ready, you do not want to go back to your office to pick them up.

Every night you finish post production, launch either a back up or create a new collection including the photos of the day. This should be done on another drive of course. It is way too risky to have a backup on the same hard drive.

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Summary

During the film you will be exposed to a new environment which may be completely different to what you are used to. That is just great. To me, one of the best thing about photography is meeting new people, everyday is different, not the same day ever. If you like that, being in the film industry is probably something you may want to experience.

I was introduced to many Australian actors during the filming and in parties, everybody extremely nice. I may have been lucky of course but I never seen a big attitude in anybody. I wished I watch more TV because at least I could have recognized few faces, but maybe it’s better like that 😀

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10 steps to be a still photographer in a feature movie production (Part 1)

It was August 2014 that I came back to Melbourne from two months in Europe where I followed the Tour De France and I went to Greece for some travel photography. I was planning my next projects when I got a call by a friend of mine and film director, Simone Albano. I spent 4 weeks on the road following The Variety Cycle project with him. I was the photographer of this massive 4000km in 26 days event and he was the film maker.

He was starting directing a new feature movie called Experience the knowing and he was looking for a still photographer. Of course my experience in the filming industry was, well……. none. I had a long talk with Simone and I was captured by the project.

I thought I had in front of me a steep learning curve. My photography work never involved actors. I read a lot and watched many video about still photography in a feature movie. I started my work in September and I had 3 months of great fun. Sure, it was hard work, but when you enjoy doing it, that’s the best time of your life.

This is a list of 10 steps that can help anybody wanting to start this career:

Step # 1 : Do your homework

As in any type of photography be sure to have all your gear with you at any time. Do not assume that you may not need a zoom lens or a flash with you. Just take everything. Be sure to have at least a change of batteries and the chargers as well. You will need them.

Watch few YouTube videos that will introduce you to the new working environment. You need to be ready with your producer requests and you need to know the movie story. Once you arrive on set you should know already the scenes and how they will be filmed. Familiarize with environment and with the people you will be working with. You will spend a considerable amount of time with them, sometime in cold and unbearable situations.

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Step #2 : Be a ghost in the set

One of the nicest compliment I received was “wow, I haven’t noticed you for the all day”. That is what you should aim. There is a movie production on going and, like it or not, still photography is not the highest priority, it actually falls in the lower part of the scale.

A movie production can live without still photography, however it will have a much better life with it. Photos are extremely important in film festivals, in social environments, in websites and much more. If the producer provides captivating photos, there is a higher probability that people will watch the movie. It is a good marketing “tool”

In saying that you need to be very careful when you move on set. First of all there are the actors. When they get ready for a scene they need to live the scene, especially if it is an intense one, as it could be a suicide. Preparing for the state of mind is very important for the actor and you should not get in the middle of it. There will be time later.

The most important figure is the director, he/she has the view of the scene and he is going to communicate it to everybody, be there to understand it, always as quiet as possible.

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Than we have the people on set as the director of photography, camera man, assistants, etc. They need to move constantly to setup the right corner, to check the correct light, change the interior design and much more. Observe what they are doing, make photos but don’t stay in the middle of it.

Basically, be a ghost on the set

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Step #3 : Silence please

Worthless to say that silence is paramount when filming. Guess what, even the click of your camera is a noise that cannot be done on set. Therefore, important, do not shoot during the filming. You can still do it in few cases as :

– the scene is without sound (it will be specified). Ask anyway the assistant of the director if you can shoot.

– you are really far away and you are working with a zoom. The background noise will cover your click. Again ask the assistant of the director if you can shoot.

It’s important to have the communication on going with your director. Do not assume you can shoot when filming in any circumstance.

Technically speaking you can still shoot on set, but be sure to use the correct gear for it as explained in this video, although it can be expensive and mostly used in Hollywood productions

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Step #4 : Flashing!

Take a flash with you at all time. Possibly one you can remotely control. There is a good number of people on set and you can always find somebody that can help you with the flash in case you do not have an assistant. Sometime the light is just not enough and without a flash you would not achieve good results. You can push the ISO to a real high level nowadays, however there is sometime a limit to it.

If you are not familiar with flash and remote flash, do your homework before going on set. Start making photos with harsh light (middle of the day) as well as in dark places and small environments. Train with high ISO and find the point where flash works better. Be familiar with the light and push your limit.

Sometime you can use the set lights and that works great! Other times you can’t and that’s where the experience comes in. Take a light meter with you and verify the conditions before you have the actors in front of you, that may help of course.

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Most important!! Scream FLASHING before you shoot. The DP and light technicians need to be aware you are flashing otherwise they may assume they have problems with the own bulbs. Again be transparent. You will soon understand who is after the light setting, just let him/her know first you are using the flash and again FLASHING before making any photo

Step #5 : Recreate the scene

You cannot take photos when they are filming. So, when is the right time? Just after a scene is completed, which it may be filmed of course from different corners. Stay on set to observe how is the scene. If you arrive too late you will not really know how was the scene. Somebody may show it to you but you need to be lucky, as everybody is way too busy.

You do not need to replicate the film, not from every corner. Just make you judgment on the best photo composition, which may be different from the filming composition

Agree with the assistant of the director to have 5-10 minutes after the scene to re-create the same environment and intensity. It may be difficult sometime as actors have already worked hard for that scene and they need a rest. However that may be the case for the first days. As soon as they see the photos and they love them, sure they will try their best to pose for you. These are the photos that go on the social environments, web, magazines, festivals and being on there it is indeed a great publicity for them, and for you of course. It is really a win-win situation.

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…..see Part 2 of this post here and remember to stay connected on Facebook, Twitter or subscribe to the monthly email, so you won’t miss any new free tutorial and tips

Top 7 sites in Docklands to make a photo

webb bridge melbourne docklands

Docklands is one of the newest area in Melbourne and the city architects opted to go for high density, which means high rise building.

In saying that, do not think that it is an ugly area.

On the contrary, many special landmarks and attractive design building have been erected, making Docklands an unusual side of the city.

It’s still a young area but it is growing in popularity.

This article is focusing on 7 sites to visit and the time when you can have a nice photo, considering sunset and sunrise time.

Enjoy !!

# 7  View of the New Quay Promenade

I like the view of the New Quay, however, unless you have access to any of the high rise building on Bourke Street this is a difficult photo to take. I was lucky enough that I knew a person that could guarantee access to one building. One hour after sunset is the best time to start shooting. You can still see the clouds in the sky and the Dockland lights are all on. Go for a full moon night for the best result.

Docklands_20120113_09_7_8-Edit-min

# 6  The shifting Channel 9 building

I was impressed by this unique architecture. Each floor shifting by one meter to look like a kid construction, a sort of Lego. This is definitely one of my favorite building in Melbourne. It is indeed one the most beautiful design you can find in this area. Visit it during the day with the sunlight, or at sunrise for the best reflection. The sun rises on the right of this picture.

Docklands_20120308_38_7_9-2-min

# 5  The Southern Star Observation Wheel

The wheel is a great subject itself for few cool photos. For the best panoramic view walk on top of the garage in the Waterfront Way. Beside the view to the Wheel you can do a great panoramic of the city from here.

Best-Travel-Camera-2016-Docklands_ Night_ Star Observation_ wheel-Docklands_20150510_076-min

# 4  Seafarers Bridge connecting the Convention Center to Docklands

This is a new pedestrian bridge named after the Mission to Seafarers, an international organization which cares for the practical and spiritual welfare of seafarers. The design is quite impressive and having the Convention Center on the background helps to have great pictures. The night is a perfect time so that you can use the yellowish in the background against the concrete color of the bridge. Alternatively try a black and white photo from the side, see this post to have an idea.

Docklands_20120306_28_29_30-2-Edit-min

# 3  Parachuting a cow in docklands

What it makes this one a great subject is the lovely location on a typical Melbourne sunset. Do not bother coming here during the day, the cow will come out washed out. The Bolte Bridge in background add that final touch.

Docklands_20120925_003-Edit-2-min

Do you want to know more about the Cow up a tree, have a read here. Did you know that this sculpture is actually one of the three in the edition! 😮

# 2 West Gate Freeway view from the South Wharf DFO parking area

This is a real interesting spot. Clearly you need to come in the night otherwise the parking area is full and you would loose the interesting view of the arterial roads of the freeway. I rode my bicycle here to have an easy and quick access, however you can also park your car in Munro Street and walk few hundreds meters. Another possibility is to walk through the DFO from the Yarra river.

An unknown great photography site close to docklands

# 1  The Webb Bridge

As you see there are many interesting places to visit in Docklands for a photo. The one I like most is the Webb Bridge. I went there already three, if not four, times to look for a different corner, different view, unusual site. The internet has a considerable amount of photo of this subject and I believe it well deserves it. Come here on sunset as the sun comes down straight at the end of the Yarra river (in summer).

Top 7 sites in Docklands to make a photo

Full Map of the top 7 sites to take a photo in Docklands

top-7-locations-for-photography-in-docklands

View Top 7 sites in Docklands to make a photo in a larger and interactive Google map

Top 6 sites to take a photo in St.Kilda

Best photography locations in St.Kilda

In the previous weeks I talked about the top spots to take a photo in Melbourne. Today I want to focus on a single area, St.Kilda.

It is one of my favourite area for sunset photography. The light can change from an intense red to a mild orange, based on season and clouds. I feel like in winter I can always get the best colours, but it may be just a personal feeling.

Beside landscapes head to Fitzroy street for some documentary or street photography.

St.Kilda was well known for drug and prostitution although, in the last decade, the area has been improved and gentrified. Few of the best events are the Pride March and the St.Kilda Festival, both usually in February.

There is a place for some action sports photography with both kitesurf and windsurf, on the west side of the beach. You will not get bored.

Enjoy

#6  East side of St.Kilda beach

StKilda_20120610_043_4_5-2-min

You need to plan this photo, it will work only with low tide, and coming from high tide.

The BOM website is my main source for the best timing.

A multitude of small little creeks take shape and it’s easy to play and use the water as a mirror.

Beside the tide the clouds help a lot as well, just think above picture with a clear blue sky.

The photo would not be quite the same.

Complicated planning but the end result can be awesome.

Winter is the best time in this place as in most of the summer the wind can be quite strong and, when not windy, there are many tourists and visitors around.

Check the full post here

#5  The St.Kilda Luna Park

StKilda_20120610_101-min

It’s free to enter therefore do not hesitate to step in and take some shots.

Unfortunately, there is one big restriction, you cannot use a tripod.

I was kindly asked to disassemble it just after my first photo, above.

There are some lovely colours in the dark and it is just a real pity to miss a stable base to use.

Whatever, let’s try to do our best with the available tools always having fun of course.

A classic photo is the clown face at the main gate, I still need to find an unusual corner myself 😀

Check the full post here and a view from outside.

#4  The little pier on the main beach

StKilda_20111130_71_2_3-min

The best time for this place is spring when the sun is setting just at the end of the pier.

It can be very busy here in the summer and, unless you want to include people in the photo, you will not be able to have a clear shot.

This pier has now been demolished

#3  St.Kilda Pavilion

It was not too long ago that the landmark of St Kilda burnt down. It was 2003.

I found this old photo on a forum with an interesting reading.

It has been rebuilt with many people liking the new pavilion and others not happy for the new layout.

Besides all the comments, this place is great for a photo.

Come here on the sunrise for the best colours.

Another awesome result can be achieved in foggy day when the pier is almost hidden, giving a lovely nostalgic effect.

StKilda_20131011_041-min#2  A walk to the sun

Walk to the west side of the beach, where the new West Beach Pavilion is.

There is a bush with a walking path and a bench.

The sun is setting just at the end of it, but only in the summer.

Hard to miss it. The composition can be a winner here.

This is probably my favourite photography location in St.Kilda

Check the full post here.

#1 The pier on a cloudy and stormy day

It can be quite wavy in St.Kilda on a stormy day, 1 or 2 metres swell are not unheard of.

A long exposure of 30 seconds can give a smooth and milky foreground in these cases.

A real nostalgic effect.

The biggest problem is the rain that may come at any time.

I was able to take below photo between rainstorms, checking carefully the weather radar on my mobile, a great help for modern photography 🙂

StKilda_20120908_018-minFull Map of  the top 6 sites to take a photo in St.Kilda

Map-of-the-best-photography-sites-in-St.Kilda

View Top 6 sites to take a photo in St.Kilda in a larger and interactive map

How to come to St.Kilda?

In Melbourne take either tram 16, 96 or 12.

From Chapel Street there is tram 79, but only at the weekend.

A taxi can cost you between $20 and $30 from the CBD