Lead-in lines are a very clever visual way that can be used to help the viewers’ eye through the scene and give your images a greater sense of depth.

For landscape photography, there is a range of scenic elements that can be used as lead-in lines including walls, fences, rivers, streams, paths, roads and much more.

Here are the best advices to use this technique to improve your landscapes

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Fine-tune your composition

Ideally, a lead-in line should run from the foreground towards a prominent focal point within the image, providing the viewer’s eye with a route to follow through the image.

This can help to convey a feeling of depth in a landscape photograph, giving it a more three-dimensional feel.

A line that runs directly from one corner of the image can be particularly effective and you’ll find that diagonal lines tend to be strongest.

Use subtle lead-in lines

Lead-in lines don’t have to dominate the image – often subtle lines can be more effective.

Implied lines, such as shadows, footprints on a sandy beach, a row of boulders and even cloud patterns can make very effective lead-ins.

Use curved lines

Lead-in lines don’t have to be straight.

Curving lines can be more effective as they slow the viewer’s progress through the image, allowing them to explore more of the detail in the scene.

Dry-stone walls, hedgerows, streams and other similar features in the landscape can sometimes provide the eye with several places to rest on its journey through the image.

Select the correct aperture

When composing an image with a lead-in line you’ll normally want to record the whole image in sharp focus from front to back.

Use an aperture between f/8 and f/15 to to have a full sharp image

Try a wide-angle lens

Lead-in lines can be accentuated with the use of a wide-angle lens, making use of perspective to help draw the viewers eye through the scene.

Strong lead-in lines photographed using a wide-angle lens at 16-17mm can create a particularly dramatic effect.

Shoot in vertical format

Lead-in lines can be used to even more dramatic effect when shooting in vertical format.

Distance will be emphasized, as the effect of perspective will be greater

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Mist and fog can be a cool effect to have in a travel, landscape or city photo. It is not something you can program, however, and when you are lucky enough to experience it, be ready with your camera.

There are few locations where it is easier to find mist and fog, others that are almost impossible. In all cases both mist and fog are seasonable.

These are the best tips to be ready with your camera. Planning is of course a big part of it.

If you are after travel photography tips, compositions, tutorials and much more then why not reading and downloading for FREE (no need to pass your email, no worries) this ultimate guide for travel photography. Over 70 pages that may change your way to make (not just take) photos when travelling.

FREE (no email required) Reference Guide to Travel Photography

Learn where mist forms

Some locations are particularly susceptible to mist, such as river valleys, lakes and marshes.

It can be a good idea to head towards these areas first, although the mist here can sometimes be too dense, obscuring trees and other landscape features completely.

If this is the case try to get as high as you can and work around the edges of any thicker banks of fog where parts of the landscape are still visible.

Pick a good vantage point

In misty conditions a good vantage point is usually a high vantage point! For the best variety of shots you’ll need to be above the mist, looking down upon it with a clear view of the surrounding landscape.

Great images can also be made at a lower level, along riverbanks and around the shores of lakes, but here the opportunities to take a variety of different shots tend to be more limited.

Persevere and revisit

Misty conditions are highly unpredictable so it’s often necessary to keep returning to the same location whenever there is the slightest chance of mist forming overnight.

Remember that mist can be patchy and may not always form in the same areas each time.

Mist also moves around a surprising amount and may come and go in a few minutes.

Cloud has a tendency to suck the mist upwards, making the conditions hazy and poor for photography.

On clear days the mist will thicken around sunrise and then quickly thin and burn off as the sun’s rays start to take effect.

Avoid flare

Don’t rely upon your lens hood to prevent flare from creeping into your images.

When shooting into the light at sunrise or sunset the sun’s rays are still likely to strike the lens.

Try using a piece of card held at arm’s length to cast a shadow across the front element of your lens.

Using Live View will help to ensure that it doesn’t appear in the shot.

Control contrast

When shooting into the sun in misty conditions it is likely that you will need to control the contrast in the scene, either using graduated ND filters or by merging several different exposures of the same scene as in HDR.

Take your time

The difference of temperature between the inside of your bag and the environment around you is usually quite high in a foggy day.

What does it mean?

Your lens will have condensation on top, once you take your camera out. It will disappear, just give a few minutes.

Do not start touching your lens or clean it, it will be a never-ending exercise 😉

Colour or black & white

It is always very hard to make a decision with a foggy/misty photo. Should I post-process it in B&W or keep the colours.

As expected colours will pop up as most of the photo will be whitish.

Try to include just one colour and you will have a good balance.

In this way, the human eye will concentrate on just one variation and it will not be distracted by multiple colours, loosing the romantic and mysterious background

Do you live or planning to come to Melbourne?

The best spot is the Dandenong Ranges, around 45 minutes from the city.

Go there in the early morning, best in spring and autumn.

If you think that this post has helped and you want to know much more about travel photography then you should read and download the FREE Ultimate Guide to Travel Photography (no emails required), a 70 pages PDF file.

Download the FREE Travel Photography guide

I do not like “pushing marketing” and that is why I do not ask email, name, phones, grandpa names etc in exchange.

However, if you want to be updated on new similar tutorials, free guides and spreadsheets and much more then you can always subscribe to the mailing list.

PS You can unsubscribe whenever you want